![](https://lemm.ee/pictrs/image/0e8708a4-91b4-4791-8c0b-ca4f06c190d9.webp)
![](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/e4083c7c-83c3-4258-8370-708e95e309b3.png)
Thanks <3
Alt account of @WFH@lemmy.world, used to interact in places where federation is still spotty on .world.
Thanks <3
If you can clamp a whole PCB on the bed, that’s a perfect application ;)
Here you go ;) https://lemm.ee/post/35636122
I 100% agree with you, a professionally made dial is a work of art and should be absolutely perfect at any magnification. This is just a fun, cheap summer watch project for my own enjoyment ;)
The best looking alternative would have been to have the logo made by electroforming. They look perfect and very professional. Unfortunately the MOQs are usually quite large and therefore expensive, I couldn’t justify spending half the price of this project just on a logo (even if I had enough spare logos for several lifetimes).
Ah perfect timing indeed.
The key takeaway indeed matches yours: it’s not a Voron despite being heavily inspired by it, there are some annoyances but at this price point it’s forgivable and most of them seem to have workarounds (someone in the comments suggested letting the machine fully soak heat before performing Z-offset calibration), the open-source nature might bring a lot of third-party upgrades in the future.
Also, the reviewer’s unit has some abnormal wear on the belts. Does it match your experience?
All in all, it seems to be a decent budget CoreXY printer with a very large volume at 1/3 the price of an LDO Voron kit + PIF parts, with a much quicker assembly but some potential pitfalls.
If this eventually becomes the Ender 3 of CoreXY printers that can be frankensteined into a a much higher quality printer over time, I’m all for it.
Than you so much for such a detailed analysis!
For reference, I’ve had a (heavily modded) Creality Ender 3 V2 for a few years, and I’ve hit a limit in terms of speed and quality.
The filament path between the extruder and hotend is poorly-constrained, making it a pain to load The auto-z calibration is often just a smidge off It uses a custom nozzle/heater
If it’s possible to install a Stealthburner instead of the standard extruder/hotend combo, it might solve most of these issues. Maybe some people are working on a V6 or Mk8 style hotend (I have a metric fuckton of Mk8 nozzles laying around)…
The fans are absurdly loud. All of them.
OK Noctua upgrades then. Compared to an already absurdly loud Ender 3, is it worse?
The mainboard is effectively a BTT CB1 and Fystec Cheetah on a single board Their software customizations are of dubious quality
Would a Voron-style mainboard + RPi + standard Klipper solve these issues or are there fundamental incompatibilities?
Thanks!
My ADHD brain panics if I need to catch a scheduled train and if I’m not actually there at least 1/4h in advance I melt into a puddle of anxiety.
But city trams and metros are absolutely fine. If I don’t catch this one, there’s gonna be another one in a few minutes. No worries.
Busses that are scheduled every half hour at most drive me mad tho. Did I miss it because it was 10 mins early because fuck schedules or is it gonna be 15 mins late?
Public transport in Europe is often in a sorry state, but trust me, it’s nothing compared to the US. Here in France, a lot of regional trains are very unreliable at best but at least high speed trains on dedicated tracks are fine (very expensive, but ok).
I don’t remember UK rail to be a shitshow and/or that expensive but my only experience is going to/from central London to/from neighboring counties and it was fine.
But in the US, oh boy. About 15 years ago I was living with some roommates in Campbell, CA and we went to SF one day. 1h drive mostly on shitty concrete motorways, including probably around $5 of gas. They were heading north for a romantic getaway so I went back to Campbell by myself. It took almost 4 fuckin hours, on maybe 4 or 5 different private companies, and cost me like $25 to get back.
Public transit in the US is so fucked up im almost convinced it’s by design.
I fuckin love vinyls, they’re beautiful, fragile, tangible, massive objects, but this is bullshit propagated by audiophile circle jerk who believe they need to break-in their $100000 solid gold oxygen-free gluten-free audio cables to properly align electrons.
Most proper denim pants are sized in inches, even from non-US countries.
But of course vanity sizing is a thing so a size 36 is closer to 38in unless explicitly specified, and most online retailers provide true sizing in cm anyway, so there’s that.
PETG is almost the same material water bottles are made from. I’ve made a soap holder that gets, by definition, constantly wet in PETG and it’s absolutely fine.
Dude I’ve been rocking a dna75c Odin mod for a few years, it’s indestructible and has the most reliable chipset I’ve ever used in the 13+ years I’ve been vaping (most other mods I’ve had had died in less than a year). But it’s massive, heavy and lacks a kill switch (like most mods) so tends to misfire if placed wrong in my pocket. I actually started to design a more compact 3D printed mod a few weeks ago that would be built around a dna75c or 100c.
I was also thinking going boro for the small form factor but no decent dna designs seem to exist.
The problem is in the spaces I don’t control. My wife is messy, my infant daughter even worse 😓
Id like to see the study ;)
The problem with my vape is not memory loss, I have a reasonably good memory, it’s that it’s too big and heavy to be comfortably carried in my pocket like my phone, so I have to carry it by hand from place to place and when I get distracted, that’s when things disappear.
I have no idea. Why? To control anger?
Ok the trick seems to be able to realize I’ve absentmindedly put something down to do something else and catch myself before I forget. I’m gonna try and consciously paying attention to it.
A legitimate salvage
There’s also a community built Flatpak if you’re ok with that
I have for my Kobo Glo HD!
Although I haven’t shared anything since it works for me but is a bit rough.
This is the dystopian 80’s-cyberpunk future that I want!
Thanks for the feedback!
I’m pretty happy with the transparencies tbh. Although on mine, there seems to be two sides, one that gives a fuzzy dirty effect with a lot of stray toner around the actual print (looks like static), and the other side that gives perfectly crisp prints. Unfortunately I can’t really tell the sides apart.
Apart from that small speck of dust that prevented the transfer at the top left of the logo, the sheet came out perfectly clean, the totality of the toner was transferred to the dial. For PCB transfers where you could probably keep the sheet intact (I had to cut mine to fit between the applied indices), that would also mean the sheet would be almost indefinitely reusable.